Gregory G. H. Rihn (milwaukeesfs) wrote,
Gregory G. H. Rihn

Vienna, day 4, evening, Mozart drank here--.

Getting back into our hotel neighborhood, we determined to try the Greischenbeisl for evening meal, since they had leberknodelsuppe on the menu, and we just wanted something light, having had the main meal of the day at noon. Georgie had a craving to try the local liver dumpling soup, which she likes, despite the fact that she doesn't care for liver in any other form--. Being Friday night the "beisl" was busy, and had a large group coming in late, but agreed to seat us if we would be in and out in an hour, which we easily agreed to.

The Greichenbeisel (The Greek Tavern) is arguably one of the most historic spots in Vienna, and is just across Fleischmarket from our alley. The structure is said to incorporate the last standing portion of the ancient city walls that weathered at least two Turkish sieges. The foundations are Roman. The name comes from Greek traders who came up the Danube from the Black Sea to buy wool and hides (Wool Seller Street is nearby) and stopped over there. One of the upper rooms, now known as the "Mark Twain room" has autographs on the wall by many famous individuals including Mozart and mark Twain. (Evidently, they call ithe the Twain room since many places in Vienna have associations with Mozart and other composers, but only one documentably with Mark Twain--.) Also, the palce claims to have been the location where the architypal Germanic song tune "Ach, du leiber Augustine" was composed and/or first performed, and "Augustine" the supposed wandering minstrel is the establishement mascot.

Despite the fact that we had agreed to be in and out quickly, the staff was a bit nonplussed that we only ordered soup, Georgie the leberknodelsuppe, and me the "frittatensuppe", a local specialty wherein noodlea are replaced by a crepe cut into strips in the clear savory broth. Georgie's bowl had a simialrly succulent broth surrounding a single liver dumpling about the size of a billard ball, which was very rich and good. We had time to order some desserts, trying their renditions of strudel and palatschinken and finding them very good as well. After dinner, we took a short turn around the streets for the air, and tehn back to the hotel to rest and plan the coming day.
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