Gregory G. H. Rihn (milwaukeesfs) wrote,
Gregory G. H. Rihn
milwaukeesfs

Dining at Maison

On Saturday, August 5th, we went to dinner at the new French restaurant, Maison, on Vliet Street in Wauwatosa.

The building has been extensively remodeled since we were last in it, as a prior business, and the new look gives the feel of a French bistro as closely as any currently available restaurant in Milwaukee.

As usual for us, we dined early, so service was immediately available. We started, as we have made a practice of, with a plate of the house charcuterie. We found the selection du jour to be very good. We got good sized servings of pork pate maison, chicken liver pate, and duck prosciutto, garnished with cornichons, a couple of spears of pickled asparagus, and a beet-picked egg, accompanied by Dijon mustard and toasted bread. All of these were very good. The pate maison was had a mild but complex flavor, the chicken very smooth and surprisingly light, especially given that it was sealed with chicken fat. The duck prosciutto had nice flavor, but the meat had more the texture of “duck jerky”, and was the least successful of the meats.

For plats principeux, we chose a couple of bistro classics, coq au vin for Georgie, and I had the entrecote de boeuf (ribeye steak), or “steak frites”.  I ordered the steak medium rare, and chose red wine sauce with it. (Other choices were wild mushroom reduction, or “hotel butter”.) I also had the choice of having the meat grilled or pan-seared, and chose grilled. The steak was perfectly done, and the sauce gave it a delicious flavor. I was a bit surprised that the ‘frites’ were what I would call ‘matchstick fries’ rather than the common French fries or wedges. I was also surprised that they weren’t overdone, but had excellent texture and flavor. The downcheck on this style of fries is that dipping them in the mild aioli is a bit of a job. On the other hand, they soaked up the wine sauce nicely and a forkful was very tasty.

The coq au vin came as two large pieces of chicken (essentially a half chicken), accompanied by roasted fingerling potatoes, all in the red wine sauce with black trumpet mushrooms and shallots. The chicken was tender and delicious and the potatoes excellent as well. The sauce was very flavorful, a bit onionier tasting than some, perhaps due to the presence of the shallots instead of the pearl onions we often see.

Maison has an all-French wine list, with some very good vintages available by the glass. I had Maison Roche de Bellene “Cuvee Terroir” Coteaux du Bourguignons, and Georgie a Gerard Bertrand Gris Blanc Pays D’OC Rosé, and we were very pleased with both of them.

For desserts, we ordered the Orange Blossom Sabayon, a very soft custardy dish, and the “Homage to Meritage” chocolate ganache cake (the name is a nod to the Meritage restaurant that formerly occupied the space).  Both were excellent and not too heavy.

Service by Colin was quick, informative, and friendly. We will go back.

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Tags: food
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